In the search for treatment of your recurring algae problem, you might find yourself wondering, “What are phosphates and how do they get in my pool?” Well they are compounds of the nonmetallic element phosphorous and are an essential nutrient for plant growth. Sound familiar? Well, according to the lake and pool industry, nitrates, phosphates and carbon are primary foods for algae growth. These phosphates enter your pool water in different ways but mainly through vegetation, rain or water run-off, tree bark and other organic matter.

In order to find out the concentration of phosphates in your swimming pool water you can use liquid tests, tabs, and test strips that will give you an accurate reading. If you find that you have above 5000ppb, parts per billion, in your swimming pool water you would need to drain and refill your pool. If your results are anywhere from 1000ppb to 5000ppb, your best option would be to give your swimming pool a phosphate treatment.

A phosphate treatment is the removal of phosphate nutrients in the pool water that algae likes to feed on. Phosphate treatments are based on lanthanum, a rare earth compound that reacts with the phosphates and precipitates them from solution. This drastically reduces the phosphate concentration in the water. Using a phosphate treatment in conjunction with your chlorine or other sanitizers will add another layer of algae control for your swimming pool.

Removal of phosphates from your swimming pool is important in maintaining a healthy water quality. Periodically, your swimming pool should be tested to make sure that the phosphate levels are depressed since swimmers and other sources are the source of new phosphates. Regular maintenance can reduce and aid in chlorine performance and efficiency, and best of all, no algae problems.

If you think you might have a phosphate problem, feel free to ask one of our qualified technicians to test your water and if a problem is found to treat it appropriately. Here are Pool Sharks we are happy to help all of our friends.

High bather loads cannot be safely handled over long periods of time without having to drain the spa more often. The following is a guideline to follow in order to estimate how often to drain a pool spa.

• Divide your total spa gallons by 3.
• Take your results and divide them by your Bather Load, or your average number of bathers per day.
• The result equals to the estimated number of days between water changes recommended to properly maintain your pool spa or hot tub.

For example, a 600 gallon spa with an average of 2 people per day Bather Load will need to be maintained by draining it every 100 days.

Periodic draining of your pool spa or hot tub water is the most important component of proper spa water maintenance. Once you have determined how often your spa needs to be drained you can schedule service with our pool experts here at Pool Sharks.

The first thing that must be done is determining your current swimming pool finish. Is it plaster? How old is it? Is it paint? What kind of paint and how many layers is it?

Once you have established your current swimming pool finish, you must decide to re-plaster your swimming pool or repaint.

We are often asked that question and our answer has much to do with the desired finished quality. Here are some determining factors regarding paint that will allow you to make an informed decision:

1. Durability and Wear: There are different qualities of paint out in the market today. Your choice will determine how long that paint job will last. Higher quality paints, which are also the most expensive, will only last up to 5 years. Paints come in a broad range of prices. Like everything else, you get what you pay for in quality and longevity.
2. Maintenance: Pool paint starts chipping off the plaster after some time, it varies depending on the quality of paint you used, meaning that you will have to drain the pool more often to repaint or touch up. Old paint that is chipping creates not only cloudy pool water but also your pool equipment, pumps and filters, will clog easier. This raises the maintenance of your filter from twice a year to every month or every other month. That is not to mention the harder your pump is working.
3. Ease in Cleaning: Pool paints can harbor algae at a higher rate than plaster, this will not only cause a dirtier pool that is harder to clean but also a slippery surface, which can be dangerous for a pool bottom.

When making a decision for your swimming pool surface we can conclude that painting your swimming pool is a second hand choice to re-plastering. It may be half the cost, but in turn, it will also only last half as long, on a good day. The few dollars that you would be saving in the short run, you will be spending in the long run.

Here at Pool Sharks we are constantly looking for the best choice for your swimming pool

There are several steps to take when checking if our swimming pool has a leak.

First, if your pool has an automatic water leveler, make sure that you turn it off. If the water level goes down more than 2 inches in one day, we can safely assume that the water loss is not just evaporation, but a water leak.

Second, once we have established that our pool has a water leak, we need to find the location of the leak. This will need a thorough inspection.

In order to conduct a pool inspection, follow these steps:

• Check the pool skimmers. The area around the skimmer should be sealed. Be sure to check the area where the tile meets the skimmer.
• Check all the tile around the pool to make sure that there are no cracks or holes or if the grout has become too porous.
• Check all the jets and returns in the pool to make sure that there are no holes around them. Make sure that all the jets and returns are properly sealed.
• Check all the lights in the swimming pool to make sure that they have no holes or that the seal has not become too porous.
• Check the main drain for cracks, holes, or a porous seal.
• Check the pool plaster at different areas of the swimming pool and look for cracks or porous areas.

Once you have assessed your pool, make sure that the fix is something attainable for your pool experience.

Many swimming pool leaks may not be detectable with a surface inspection. Make sure that you recognize the need to call the experts at Pool Sharks. With current technology, most swimming pool leaks can be repaired without major disruption.

All in all, your swimming pool losing water can add up to major costs in the long run. Checking your pool for a water leak can save you money and headaches. Our experts at Pool Sharks will be happy to help you.

1. Pool Sharks has built a team of service professionals with expertise in every aspect of swimming pool care, maintenance and repair.
2. Every pool is unique. We’ll customize a scheduled program specifically tailored to your backyard.
3. Reliable service, count on us to be there on time and schedule.
4. We offer the longest warranties in pool equipment in the South Texas area, from Laredo to Corpus Christi.
5. Pool Sharks offers SEVEN days a week, 24-HOUR a day emergency service.
6. Our complete pool cleaning program offers: brushing pool walls, floor and tile, cleaning skimmer and pump baskets, vacuuming pool, backwash filter, and hose down pool deck.
7. Our pool service cleaners and technicians are state certified.
8. Pool Sharks is trusted by top insurance agencies for claims and warranties because we are knowledgeable and dependable.
9. Over 100 years of combined experience.
10. Values we strive for:

a. Leadership – Highly effective, lean and fast-moving company.
b. Integrity
c. Accountability
d. Passion – Committed in heart and in mind.
e. Quality – What we do, we do well.

Most inground swimming pools need to be chlorine washed every few years to keep the mineral content at normal levels.  White plaster is the most common finish in inground swimming pools and it is also more susceptible to improperly maintained or fluctuating chemical conditions.

While a green, algae-filled swimming pool is a good reason to give it a chlorine wash, the hardness level of the water is very important. Normal hardness levels are between 250-350PPM, Parts Per Million. When the hardness level exceeds 700-800 PPM, the calcium deposits will clog the filter and pipes, reducing water flow and filtration efficiency. The water then becomes cloudy and it will irritate the eyes.

Reducing calcium hardness is very difficult without draining the pool partially or completely. The industry standard is to drain the pool and give it a chlorine wash with a light chlorine solution and a special additive that will whiten plaster and help protect the surface from etching.

Chlorine washes are also less invasive than acid washes that remove a thin layer of plaster and should only be done a maximum of three times during the inground swimming pool’s lifetime.

A chlorine wash will allow your inground swimming pool to return to its newly plastered splendor without breaking your budget. If you have any questions or would like to schedule your chlorine wash with one of our professionals please feel free to fill out our contact form.

Here at Pool Sharks our trained and certified professionals are happy to help in all your swimming pool needs.

The proper backwashing procedure is as follows:

1. Filter is ready to backwash when pressure on filter tank gauge goes up 10 psi above the normal setting.
2. Turn off time clocks on all pumps.
3. Rotate Dial Valve to “Backwash Position”. Always make sure the valve handle is in the slot.
4. Extend the flexible backwash hose to where you want the discharge to run.
5. Turn On the pool timer and allow water to run out from the backwash line.
6. Allow water to run until it runs clear, approximately 3-5 minutes.
7. Turn off power at time clock and rotate filter valve to Filter position.
8. Allow filter to run approximately 4-6 minutes in Filter position.
9. Repeat steps 2, 3, 5 and 6 or until discharged water is clean. This will usually take 3 times.
10. After final backwash, turn off power and rotate valve to Rinse position. Turn on filter time clock again. Allow to run in Rinse cycle for approximately one minute. Roll up the flexible backwash hose to original position; some systems may not require the backwash hose.
11. After final rinse, cut off filter at time clock, rotate valve to Filter position and turn On filter power again.
12. If your pool has more than one skimmer, plug up the skimmer which is farthest away from the filter system by placing the black plug, attached to the control plate, in the center port preventing any water to flow through this skimmer. This procedure is known as “Closing off the Skimmer”. Remove lid from skimmer closest to filter system. Empty any debris from the skimmer basket, which could restrict full water flow, and replace control plate.
13. In a 5 gallon plastic bucket, add 6 to 9 one pound coffee cans of diatomaceous powder to bucket and fill bucket. Fill bucket with water, stir to a milky, thick solution. Amount of D.E. will be determined by the size of filter.
14. Very slowly, pour solution into skimmer allowing skimmer to pull down D.E. mixture. Be cautious not to get any of this solution into the skimming pool water for this will surely cloud the water. When you are near bottom of bucket and solution is too think to pour, add more water to bucket to give the solution a free flow.
15. Once you have added all the solution to the skimmer, rinse the bucket and pour final liquid into skimmer and remember to unplug the other skimmer.

One thing to remember when backwashing the D.E. filter system for the first time, always make note of the beginning filter pressure gauge reading. This will help you to remember what your normal setting of pressure will be for the next backwashing cycle.

We very highly recommend that the Diatomaceous Earth filter system be dismantled and cleaned a minimum of three (3) times a year. This recommendation is made to ensure that the elements inside the tank be preserved to endure their full estimated life.

For ninety percent of our customers, this procedure is normally done by our service department due to the detailed reassembly of the grid system. However, if attempted, feel free to call our office prior to dismantling the filter tank so we may advise you of the correct backwashing procedure.

Follow these directions to enjoy a clean filter and a clean pool in no time courtesy of your friends here at Texas Pool Sharks:

1.     Filter is ready for backwashing when the pressure on the filter tank gauge goes up 8-10 pounds above normal setting.

2.     At this point, turn off all time clocks on all pumps.

3.     Rotate Dial Valve to “Backwash Position”.

4.     Extend the flexible 2″ backwash hose to wash out area, the grass, If no backwash hosing is supplied, water will then be back washed into pee trap.

5.     Turn on the pool timer and allow water to run out backwash line.

6.     Allow water to run until it comes out clear out of the tank. This will take approximately 3-5 minutes.

7.     Turn off power at time clock, then rotate filter valve to Filter position and On power at time clock once more.

8.     Allow filter to run approximately 4-6 minutes.

9.     Repeat steps 2,3,5,6.

10. After final back wash, turn off power and rotate valve to rinse position. Turn on power and allow filter to rinse for ONE minute.

11. After final rinse, cut off filter at time clock. Rotate valve to Filter position and turn on filter power again. Roll up the flexible back wash hose to original position.

12. Back washing is complete. Make a mental note of the beginning pressure on the filter gauge.

Your sand filter should be back washed once a week, or more often if pressure raises above normal setting (10lbs. over). If you think that your sand filter will wear out from this process, think again. The sand does not lose its angular shape, it simply becomes polluted with skin oils, hair or sunscreen chemicals that will be removed once the filter has had its proper maintenance.

Usually spring and fall will cause the pressure to go up with all the blooms and shedding of trees and shrubs.  After a normal backwash the pressure on your sand filter should drop down 8-10 pounds.  The sand in your filter system should last approximately 5 to 7 years before needing to be changed out.

If you should have any more questions, or if you get stuck trying to backwash your filter feel free to contact us over the phone.

Get your water right on the scale by balancing your water. This simple procedure will lengthen the life of your water, pump, heater, filter, and other equipment. Balancing and testing your water will also make your pool care a breeze.

pH is the most important factor in water balance. The pH range is used to measure the relative acid or base of the water. This you probably learned in your basic chemistry class in high school.

Here are the exact fields in which you should see your water:

The range runs from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 being a neutral. Readings between 7.2 and 7.6 are considered acceptable, or in the comfort zone, for swimming pool water. Balanced water must be held safely between two harmful extremes.

If your water comes on the low side of the scale, it becomes corrosive and starts to attack pool surfaces and equipment. We call this your corrosion zone. Ha! Now you know why your water heater is corroding.

On the other hand, if your pool water tips the scale on the high side you will start to notice scale buildup, and this is your scaling zone that will leave unwanted deposits in your pool.

Unbalanced water not only brings bad news but also may put a hole in your pocket. How’s that? Your sanitizer’s effectiveness will be hindered if your water is off balance. So this is probably your answer if you start seeing an increasing amount of chlorine to keep your pool clear.

The second factor you must look at is at the Total Alkalinity of your pool. Total Alkalinity measures the alkaline materials dissolved in the water, and the acceptable range is between 80 and 150 ppm. Expressed in parts per million (ppm), total alkalinity results from alkaline materials including carbonates, bicarbonates and hydroxides – mostly bicarbonates in your pool. Alkaline water is acid neutralizing, meaning that it helps prevent wide variations in pH.

In a few words, Total alkalinity is a measure of water’s resistance to change in pH.

Same as pH, if the Total Alkalinity is low, the result is “pH bounce”, meaning that the pH will tend to “bounce” in and out of range. If the Total Alkalinity is too high, yes you also have problems. This will make your water to become very difficult to adjust to a normal pH.

Not to worry, any alkalinity problem can be fixed. See chart for exact information.

The third factor in balanced water is measuring Calcium Hardness. The normal range for Calcium Hardness is between 175 and 275 ppm. This is referring to the amount of dissolved minerals, mostly calcium carbonate, in water.

Although under normal conditions this is not a problem in a properly operated pool, this chemical imbalance also heads up problems. For example, a low Calcium Hardness can lead to corrosion of equipment or the etching of a plaster finish. Like everything else we have discussed, the other side of the scale says that a high Calcium Hardness level causes cloudy water and scaling.

Calcium Hardness is also a very controllable element in your pool. See chart to adjust your Calcium Hardness levels.

Lastly, Stabilizer is an important factor in your pool water’s “health”. Without this factor the sun’s rays would quickly destroy the chlorine in your pool. Stabilizer is Cyanuric Acid that acts as a “sun shield” to make the chlorine last longer. This means that your chlorine could last up to 3 ½ times longer!! Imagine the savings!

Proper stabilization requires 30 to 50 ppm of Cyanuric Acid, and outdoor pools should start by raising it to a minimum level of 40 ppm Cyanuric Acid. Afterwards, you can simply use stabilized chlorine to maintain the proper Stabilizer levels.

Flamingo Pools International is a premier inground swimming pool builder and swimming pool parts supplier. For more information on inground swimming pool maintenance tips and advise visit Flamingo-Pools.net